When my parents told me that we were going to Kashmir, I was a little sceptical. Most of us had only heard about terrorism and militancy in that remote state . Why should we risk going there? After all, there are so many beautiful places we could visit - London, France, Germany, or even places in our very own India, such as Kerala, Rajasthan or Ooty. Why Kashmir? A lot of people had told us that Kashmir is beautiful, but how beautiful can it be?
Well, one has to see it to believe it. Kashmir is prettier than (or at least equally pretty as), most foreign tourist destinations in the world, such as Switzerland, Venice and Austria. The acres and acres of green meadows with sheep grazing by the thousands, is sure to make you wonder whether you have stepped onto the sets of Robert Wise’s legendary movie. Here, the hills are truly alive with the sounds of music.
Kashmir is the preferred choice for many Bollywood film makers and tons of films have been shot here, right from the Amitabh-Rekha starrer ‘Silsila’, to Sunny Deol’s debut movie ‘Betaab’; from the hilarious ‘Satte-pe-Satta’ to the poignant ‘Rockstar’, to name a few. Kashmir was the king of shooting locations until militant insurgency destroyed homes, tourism and lives.
Talking to a few local Kashmiris, and gauging the situation in and around Kashmir left us with quite a lot to ponder about. Kashmir may be extremely rich in natural resources, but it is woefully poor in terms of industries. No one wants to take the risk of putting up an industry that may be destroyed in one of the many terrorist attacks. Kashmir probably has the maximum number of people with Maruti 800 cars, a vehicle that is almost obsolete in other parts of India. Under-developed roads and corrupt officials who ask for bribes at every nook and cranny make you feel sorry for the inhabitants of this beautiful state. Army officials are present everywhere, as are huge convoys of jawans in trucks. Many of them sit alone in vast fields, bored, yet never wavering from their posts.
Most Kashmiris are not so well off, and yet, a local told me that ‘Koi bhi Kashmiri bhookha nahi sota’. Many locals, especially the more aged and experienced of the lot, recount the horrors of the time when Kashmir was torn apart. Ravaged by violence. Curfew was a regular feature in Srinagar and the streets were deserted. Kashmiris migrated in hoards to other states, taking with them only what they really needed. It was a harrowing experience and one that time will never heal.
“We have lost an entire generation of talented youngsters to terrorism. Now, we have decided that violence is not the way forward. It has been the decision of the Kashmiri people to stop this mindless terrorism that infiltrated our borders. We want a solution to our problems and a patient ear for our grievances, but above all, we want peace, for only peace brings prosperity,” a local told me.
The boom of tourists, especially this year, is a great sign for a state whose economy is sustained purely on tourism. With no industries and not enough fertile land to grow anything apart from fruits, Kashmir thrives on tourism. Which is why in towns like Pahalgam and Gulmarg, the only mode of transport is what the locals provide. You have to travel by horses to any place you want to reach in Gulmarg, and haggling with the horse-owners leaves you drained before the day has even begun. In Pahalgam, you have to use the local taxis available to reach places like Aru and Chandanwari. It doesn’t matter that they drive like maniacs and turn blind corners at 50km/hr. It’s all in a day’s work, but it does leave you with your heart in your mouth.
Srinagar, the capital, is a bustling city situated on Dal Lake. The public gardens are worth a visit and home to gorgeous manicured bushes and beautiful flowers such as pansies, lilies, roses and tulips. They are truly a treat for the eyes and a photographer’s joy, as are the many houseboats that dot the lake’s horizon. The shikara (a light, flat-bottomed boat) ride in the Dal Lake through the floating markets transports you straight to Venice, while expensive shops selling dry fruits and papier mache that line the streets remind you of Mumbai.
Travel a few hundred miles and you reach the pretty hill station of Gulmarg, home to the highest Gondola ride in the world. And by Gondola, I mean a cable car, not the boat that roams the waters of Venice. The Gondola takes you to a height of approximately 13,400 feet and all you see around you is snow, snow and more snow! Once you reach the top, if you are lucky and it is a clear day, you might be able to see vague outlines of Pakistani bunkers in a distant mountain – again hearsay, but technically believable. Afarwat, as this place is locally called, makes you bless the invention of digital cameras, as even 3 film rolls will not suffice in capturing the awe-inspiring beauty here.
Pahalgam, one of the other popular tourist destinations in Kashmir, is again a few kilometres drive from Gulmarg. One must try out the white water rafting on the Lidder River. Though the rapids are not as strong as the ones in Hrishikesh (so I am told), the experience leaves you will lovely memories, not to mention numb feet and chattering teeth!
There is so much more to see in this beautiful place. Small day-trips to Hazratbal Mosque and to Chandanwari, the birth of the Sheeshnag River and also the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra that thousands of Hindus make every year, is a good way to recharge your spiritual batteries. A stop at the glacier of Sonmarg, and the drive to Aru is a great way to exploit the fact that you have a digital camera.
Locals told us that this year saw the highest number of tourists till date, and the season was not yet over. Well, that can only be good news for all of us. It is great that people are visiting this ‘Heaven on earth’ and trying to alleviate it from the hellish chaos it was in a few years ago.
Well, one has to see it to believe it. Kashmir is prettier than (or at least equally pretty as), most foreign tourist destinations in the world, such as Switzerland, Venice and Austria. The acres and acres of green meadows with sheep grazing by the thousands, is sure to make you wonder whether you have stepped onto the sets of Robert Wise’s legendary movie. Here, the hills are truly alive with the sounds of music.
 |
| Straight out of the meadows of 'The Sound of Music'! |
If the hills are alive with music, then the narrow, winding mountain paths that you have to traverse on horseback are bubbling with the thrill of ‘Mackenna's Gold’. The eerie silence, broken only by the clip-clop of your horse’s hooves, is, for some, a discomfiting experience. On your left are tall stagnant mountains, while on your right are poker-straight trees standing like sentries and protecting you from becoming the river’s dinner.
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| The narrow path straight out of 'Mackenna's Gold'! |
Kashmir is the preferred choice for many Bollywood film makers and tons of films have been shot here, right from the Amitabh-Rekha starrer ‘Silsila’, to Sunny Deol’s debut movie ‘Betaab’; from the hilarious ‘Satte-pe-Satta’ to the poignant ‘Rockstar’, to name a few. Kashmir was the king of shooting locations until militant insurgency destroyed homes, tourism and lives.
Talking to a few local Kashmiris, and gauging the situation in and around Kashmir left us with quite a lot to ponder about. Kashmir may be extremely rich in natural resources, but it is woefully poor in terms of industries. No one wants to take the risk of putting up an industry that may be destroyed in one of the many terrorist attacks. Kashmir probably has the maximum number of people with Maruti 800 cars, a vehicle that is almost obsolete in other parts of India. Under-developed roads and corrupt officials who ask for bribes at every nook and cranny make you feel sorry for the inhabitants of this beautiful state. Army officials are present everywhere, as are huge convoys of jawans in trucks. Many of them sit alone in vast fields, bored, yet never wavering from their posts.
Most Kashmiris are not so well off, and yet, a local told me that ‘Koi bhi Kashmiri bhookha nahi sota’. Many locals, especially the more aged and experienced of the lot, recount the horrors of the time when Kashmir was torn apart. Ravaged by violence. Curfew was a regular feature in Srinagar and the streets were deserted. Kashmiris migrated in hoards to other states, taking with them only what they really needed. It was a harrowing experience and one that time will never heal.
 |
| Terror and innocence live together in Kashmir |
“We have lost an entire generation of talented youngsters to terrorism. Now, we have decided that violence is not the way forward. It has been the decision of the Kashmiri people to stop this mindless terrorism that infiltrated our borders. We want a solution to our problems and a patient ear for our grievances, but above all, we want peace, for only peace brings prosperity,” a local told me.
Someone once told me that Kashmir is like the spoilt child of two divorced parents – India and Pakistan. Both these countries try and influence the locals to ‘come over to their side’. However, contrary to what many Indians think, only a skeletal minority of Kashmiris want to join Pakistan. The majority want to remain a part of India, but on one condition. They want autonomy.
However, their idea of autonomy seems a little far-fetched and rosy. They want to remain with India, want Indian soldiers to guard their borders, and want to retain everything Indian, but want their leaders to be one of their own, not from the government. Support for the current government seems to be ebbing, as more and more Kashmiris want to take up the cudgels themselves and free their people from poverty and depression. A bit utopian, right? Well, after all they have gone through, you cannot really blame them.
However, their idea of autonomy seems a little far-fetched and rosy. They want to remain with India, want Indian soldiers to guard their borders, and want to retain everything Indian, but want their leaders to be one of their own, not from the government. Support for the current government seems to be ebbing, as more and more Kashmiris want to take up the cudgels themselves and free their people from poverty and depression. A bit utopian, right? Well, after all they have gone through, you cannot really blame them.
 |
| Living with the memories of yesterday, hopeful of a better tomorrow... |
The boom of tourists, especially this year, is a great sign for a state whose economy is sustained purely on tourism. With no industries and not enough fertile land to grow anything apart from fruits, Kashmir thrives on tourism. Which is why in towns like Pahalgam and Gulmarg, the only mode of transport is what the locals provide. You have to travel by horses to any place you want to reach in Gulmarg, and haggling with the horse-owners leaves you drained before the day has even begun. In Pahalgam, you have to use the local taxis available to reach places like Aru and Chandanwari. It doesn’t matter that they drive like maniacs and turn blind corners at 50km/hr. It’s all in a day’s work, but it does leave you with your heart in your mouth.
Srinagar, the capital, is a bustling city situated on Dal Lake. The public gardens are worth a visit and home to gorgeous manicured bushes and beautiful flowers such as pansies, lilies, roses and tulips. They are truly a treat for the eyes and a photographer’s joy, as are the many houseboats that dot the lake’s horizon. The shikara (a light, flat-bottomed boat) ride in the Dal Lake through the floating markets transports you straight to Venice, while expensive shops selling dry fruits and papier mache that line the streets remind you of Mumbai.
 |
| The gorgeous pansies in various hues! |
Travel a few hundred miles and you reach the pretty hill station of Gulmarg, home to the highest Gondola ride in the world. And by Gondola, I mean a cable car, not the boat that roams the waters of Venice. The Gondola takes you to a height of approximately 13,400 feet and all you see around you is snow, snow and more snow! Once you reach the top, if you are lucky and it is a clear day, you might be able to see vague outlines of Pakistani bunkers in a distant mountain – again hearsay, but technically believable. Afarwat, as this place is locally called, makes you bless the invention of digital cameras, as even 3 film rolls will not suffice in capturing the awe-inspiring beauty here.
 |
| The breath-taking view of the mountains from Afarwat |
Pahalgam, one of the other popular tourist destinations in Kashmir, is again a few kilometres drive from Gulmarg. One must try out the white water rafting on the Lidder River. Though the rapids are not as strong as the ones in Hrishikesh (so I am told), the experience leaves you will lovely memories, not to mention numb feet and chattering teeth!
There is so much more to see in this beautiful place. Small day-trips to Hazratbal Mosque and to Chandanwari, the birth of the Sheeshnag River and also the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra that thousands of Hindus make every year, is a good way to recharge your spiritual batteries. A stop at the glacier of Sonmarg, and the drive to Aru is a great way to exploit the fact that you have a digital camera.
Locals told us that this year saw the highest number of tourists till date, and the season was not yet over. Well, that can only be good news for all of us. It is great that people are visiting this ‘Heaven on earth’ and trying to alleviate it from the hellish chaos it was in a few years ago.
 |
| The origin of the Sheeshnag River |
When the famous Persian poet Firdaus said the lines below, he was not exaggerating. Kashmir truly is paradise on earth!
"Agar Firdaus Ba-Roohe Zameenast
Hameenasto Hameenasto Hammenasto..."
(If there is heaven on earth,
it is here, it is here, it is here.)
"Agar Firdaus Ba-Roohe Zameenast
Hameenasto Hameenasto Hammenasto..."
(If there is heaven on earth,
it is here, it is here, it is here.)
